I'VE BEEN GOING TO WOLFGANG PUCK'S EXPRESS IN THE BASEMENT OF MACY'S A LOT LATELY BECAUSE THEY HAVE TERRIFIC CHICKEN FINGERS. AS I SIT THERE -- USUALLY ALONE -- I PRETEND IT'S 1984 AND THAT I'M AT THE ORIGINAL SPAGO IN BEVERYLY HILLS AND THE TONS OF TOURIST-SHOPPERS SWARMING AROUND ME ARE REALLY COKED-UP EIGHTIES HOLLYWOOD POWERBROKERS. AND THAT PAYING $9.50 FOR LUNCH IS AN ASTRONOMICAL SUM OF MONEY ... BUT YOU KNOW WHAT? I'M WORTH IT.